Seeing the Sights on Route 66 – Missouri – Part 1 (St. Louis to Devil’s Elbow)

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ENTERING MISSOURI & ST. LOUIS

The last stop in Illinois was the Chain of Rocks Bridge which is where Route 66 used to cross the Mississippi.  The bridge still crosses the river, but only for foot and bike traffic.  Instead, you wind your way back through several spaghetti bowl Interstate mazes and cross the river on I-55 where you get off and maneuver through city streets.  On our route we encountered construction and detours plus plenty more areas of the roadway that were in dire need of construction.  You are very close to Gateway Arch National Park, Laclede Landing District and the St. Louis Riverfront.  The Old Courthouse at the National Park was still closed to the public for renovations and we had previously been to the top of the Arch so we skipped them for this trip but we highly recommend taking the time to visit if you’ve never been before.  Route 66 picks up by Busch Stadium, home of the St. Louis Cardinals.  We’ve been to several baseball stadiums around the country and the Cardinals were in town while we were there so we met up with a friend and enjoyed a game before continuing our journey.  We also spied the St. Louis landmark, the Donut Drive-In, that was opened in 1952 and retains is period signage.

Route 66 takes you very close to the Gateway Arch.
Route 66 takes you very close to the Gateway Arch.
Busch Stadium is an open air park with a great view.
Busch Stadium is an open air park with a great view.
Donut Drive-In with its original 50's era signage.
Donut Drive-In with its original 50's era signage.

PACIFIC, MO

Leaving St. Louis, there was not much to see on the newer stretch of Route 66 that we were following until we reached Eureka, MO where you could see the ruins of an original Route 66 bridge structure and a Route 66 state park (we didn’t get any pictures).  If you choose the older section of Route 66 there are a few places to see in Webster Groves, Brentwood, Kirkwood and Wildwood.  In Pacific we saw the Beacon Car and Pet Wash.  It sits at the bottom of a really unique cliff that looks like it would be fun to explore.

The Beacon Car and Pet Wash with its old school signage
The Beacon Car and Pet Wash with its old school signage
The bottom of the cliffs are peeking out behind Beacon
The bottom of the cliffs are peeking out behind Beacon

VILLA RIDGE, MO

Missouri is where we started seeing more of the classic Route 66 motels you think of, however, many of them were in ruins, abandoned, or converted to private residences or storage facilities (I use these terms very loosely…lets just say we didn’t stick around to take pictures).  It was pretty hard to miss the Gardenway Motel sign, but the hotel has been closed since 2014.  We also saw the Sunset Motel which looked respectable but it is now a private property and not open to the public. 

Gardenway Motel Sign circa 1945
Gardenway Motel Sign circa 1945
Sunset Motel Entrance and Exit signs
Sunset Motel Entrance and Exit signs
Sunset Motel - Private Property
Sunset Motel - Private Property

UNION, MO

The Indian Harvest Trading Post looked like a unique roadside tourist gift shop.  We didn’t stop but I thought the buildings were unique!

Indian Harvest Trading Post
Indian Harvest Trading Post

ST. CLAIR, MO

St. Clair had a huge barn that sat between the Interstate and Route 66 with the Meramec Caverns sign on it.  I don’t know when this barn sign was painted, but I have seen many pictures of it over the years.  It looks like its got a fresh coat of paint on it.  There is also the billboard for the Jesse James Hideout and Meramec Caverns. 

Jesse James Hideout & Meramec Caverns billboard
Jesse James Hideout & Meramec Caverns billboard
Meramec Caverns barn sign
Meramec Caverns barn sign

STANTON, MO

The outlaw, Jesse James, was a big deal in the area.  In 1948 the General Manager of Meramec Caverns befriended a fellow named J. Frank Dalton who was 100 years old at the time and claimed to be Jesse James.  (Nevermind that the original 1882 grave of Jesse was exhumed and DNA says its a 99.7% match).  The Jesse James Wax Museum seeks to prove with the only live film footage of Jesse James, the largest collection of personal artifacts, a historic firearms collection as well as wax figures, that Jesse and J. Frank Dalton were one and the same.  Unfortunately the museum is “temporarily closed – check back soon” according to their website.  I hope they do re-open and this unique piece of history doesn’t fall victim to another Route 66 business not making it.

Jesse James Wax Museum
Jesse James Wax Museum

SULLIVAN, MO

Sullivan is home to the Meramec Caverns.  A word about the caverns – these are supposed to be spectacular caverns and one of Jesse James’ hideouts.  Its the largest commercial cave in Missouri and has more to see and do than just the cave.  As much as we love caves, our days of navigating the stairs, ramps and slippery passageways to view them are behind us.  We hope you have the opportunity to see them! Instead of the caverns, we enjoyed this beautiful mural on the outside of a historic downtown building that depicts all facets of Route 66. 

Sullivan, MO Route 66 mural
Sullivan, MO Route 66 mural

CUBA, MO

The scenery in Missouri has been beautiful with rolling hills and lots of greenery (trees, not the corn and beans of Illinois).  The Route 66 sights have been sporadic and sometimes a bid sad to see the state of ruin they are in.  Cuba was a breath of fresh air and was just what we needed to reinvigorate our interest in this iconic byway.  Cuba is known as a town of murals and it didn’t disappoint.  Everywhere we looked we found more to see.  Since I can’t draw a stick figure to save my life I am fascinated by the large scale art that people can create on the side of buildings.  In addition to the murals, we saw the Wagon Wheel Motel which is the oldest continuously operated motel on Route 66 at over 80 years old!  It is super cute and restored to its original charm.  It looks more like cabins than the traditional motels.  This is one place I’d definitely recommend staying at if your trip permits (they get great reviews online).  There is Shelly’s Route 66 Cafe and Weir on 66 restaurant.  Weir’s was originally a modern, full-service Philips 66 filling and service station in the 1930’s.  It has been a variety of things but it is currently a restaurant but it has been restored and the murals depict its original 1930’s glory.  

The Wagon Wheel Motel
The Wagon Wheel Motel
Wagon Wheel Motel - looks like cute cottages
Wagon Wheel Motel - looks like cute cottages
Wagon Wheel Motel - Neon sign and an antique car by the office
Wagon Wheel Motel - Neon sign and an antique car by the office
Shelly's on Route 66 Cafe
Shelly's on Route 66 Cafe
Greetings from Cuba, MO
Greetings from Cuba, MO
Al West Tractor Sales mural
Al West Tractor Sales mural
"News and Review" newspaper mural headline "Bette Davis Visits Cuba"
"News and Review" newspaper mural headline "Bette Davis Visits Cuba"
1930's Philip's filling station is now Weir on Route 66 restaurant
1930's Philip's filling station is now Weir on Route 66 restaurant
Cuba 1 Cell Jail - 1908
Cuba 1 Cell Jail - 1908
Inside the Cuba Jail
Inside the Cuba Jail
Info about the Cuba Jail
Info about the Cuba Jail
Riviera Maya mural
Riviera Maya mural
Civil War murals - In 1864, an estimated 12,000 troops under Major General Price invaded SE Missouri. On Sept 27 they surrounded Fort Davidson, a small earthwork at Pilot Knob. The Union garrison numbered 1262 troops and about 150 civilians, under the command of Brigadier General Ewing.
Civil War murals - In 1864, an estimated 12,000 troops under Major General Price invaded SE Missouri. On Sept 27 they surrounded Fort Davidson, a small earthwork at Pilot Knob. The Union garrison numbered 1262 troops and about 150 civilians, under the command of Brigadier General Ewing.
The Battle of Pilot Knob - Sept 27, 1864. Price's soldiers attached in 3 waves, the final desperate assault reaching the dry moat surrounding the fort. They were repelled by a combination of fierce fire and hand-thrown Ketcham grenades, leaving behind over 1000 dead and wounded. Union casualties numbered 12 dead, 65 wounded, and 129 missing.
The Battle of Pilot Knob - Sept 27, 1864. Price's soldiers attached in 3 waves, the final desperate assault reaching the dry moat surrounding the fort. They were repelled by a combination of fierce fire and hand-thrown Ketcham grenades, leaving behind over 1000 dead and wounded. Union casualties numbered 12 dead, 65 wounded, and 129 missing.
Destroying the Fort - Sep 28, 1864. Shortly after midnight, after muffling the horse's hooves and cannon wheels with cloth, the entire Union command marched out of the fort and directly through the Confederate lines. To their amazement, they were not challenged and not a shot was fired, the southerners apparently mistaking them for their own troops. A few hours later a Union demolition team blew up the powder magazine inside the fort. The massive blast rained debris all around the galloping team, but left them untouched. Price's troops attached at daylight, only to find the fort abandoned.
Destroying the Fort - Sep 28, 1864. Shortly after midnight, after muffling the horse's hooves and cannon wheels with cloth, the entire Union command marched out of the fort and directly through the Confederate lines. To their amazement, they were not challenged and not a shot was fired, the southerners apparently mistaking them for their own troops. A few hours later a Union demolition team blew up the powder magazine inside the fort. The massive blast rained debris all around the galloping team, but left them untouched. Price's troops attached at daylight, only to find the fort abandoned.
Battle of the Huzzah - Sept 29, 1864. For the next 2 days, General Ewing led his small command on a grueling retreat north across the Ozarks, covering 66 miles in 39 hours. Rebel cavalry attacked hotly from the rear, but could not flank them due to the rugged terrain.
Battle of the Huzzah - Sept 29, 1864. For the next 2 days, General Ewing led his small command on a grueling retreat north across the Ozarks, covering 66 miles in 39 hours. Rebel cavalry attacked hotly from the rear, but could not flank them due to the rugged terrain.
Confederates in Cuba - Sept 29, 1864. Ewing's intent was to reach the railroad at Leasburg and take his group by train to safety in St. Louis. But the confederates rapidly sent detachments east and west of Leasburg to destroy track. In Cuba they burned the depot and boxcars, as well as Sweetin's and Upshaw's stores. Price's troops, chronically short of supplies, raided nearby farms looking for food, weapons and clothing.
Confederates in Cuba - Sept 29, 1864. Ewing's intent was to reach the railroad at Leasburg and take his group by train to safety in St. Louis. But the confederates rapidly sent detachments east and west of Leasburg to destroy track. In Cuba they burned the depot and boxcars, as well as Sweetin's and Upshaw's stores. Price's troops, chronically short of supplies, raided nearby farms looking for food, weapons and clothing.
Rescue at Leasburg Oct 1, 1864 - The exhausted Federals arrived at Leasburg near dusk on the 29th and took shelter in a railroad cut, stacking cordwood and ties for protection. A continual fire was exchanged through the night and following day. On the morning of Oct 1, a lookout spotted a column of cavalry. As they drew near, the stars and stripes appeared-reinforcements from the Union garrison at Rolla. The Rebels gave up and moved on. General Ewing's command celebrated the end of their ordeal.
Rescue at Leasburg Oct 1, 1864 - The exhausted Federals arrived at Leasburg near dusk on the 29th and took shelter in a railroad cut, stacking cordwood and ties for protection. A continual fire was exchanged through the night and following day. On the morning of Oct 1, a lookout spotted a column of cavalry. As they drew near, the stars and stripes appeared-reinforcements from the Union garrison at Rolla. The Rebels gave up and moved on. General Ewing's command celebrated the end of their ordeal.
People's Bank mural
People's Bank mural
Amelia Earhart mural - Sept 4, 1928 - Amelia Earhart coming to City! First woman to fly across Atlantic due here today but reported down. Miss Earhart was forced down near Cuba, MO about 75 miles SW of St. Louis, according to advices received at Hatbox field this afternoon. The extent of damage to her plane, if any, was not given. If it was not damaged greatly, it is expected she will continue her journey and land at Hatbox field tomorrow.
Amelia Earhart mural - Sept 4, 1928 - Amelia Earhart coming to City! First woman to fly across Atlantic due here today but reported down. Miss Earhart was forced down near Cuba, MO about 75 miles SW of St. Louis, according to advices received at Hatbox field this afternoon. The extent of damage to her plane, if any, was not given. If it was not damaged greatly, it is expected she will continue her journey and land at Hatbox field tomorrow.
Frisco Bluebonnet - WWII mural
Frisco Bluebonnet - WWII mural
Indigenous people with European explorers
Indigenous people with European explorers
Apples and Berries mural
Apples and Berries mural
Apples and Berries mural
Apples and Berries mural
Hayes Shoe Store mural
Hayes Shoe Store mural
Prosperity Corner mural
Prosperity Corner mural
McGinnis Wood Products Est. 1968 mural
McGinnis Wood Products Est. 1968 mural
Sheetmetal & Millwork Dept - depicts the 1948 Roberts-Judson Lumber Company millworks building, the site of custom woodworking and sheet metal production. It remains one of the oldest continuing businesses in Cuba.
Sheetmetal & Millwork Dept - depicts the 1948 Roberts-Judson Lumber Company millworks building, the site of custom woodworking and sheet metal production. It remains one of the oldest continuing businesses in Cuba.
Homecoming Fair 1940 mural
Homecoming Fair 1940 mural

FANNING, MO

Depending on what map you look at, this is either Cuba or Fanning Missouri.  But since Cuba already wowed us with all of their murals and the name of this place has Fanning in the title, I’m going with Fanning.  Fanning Outpost General Store is a great pit stop to get out, stretch your legs, check out their mural and the worlds 2nd largest rocking chair and enjoy all of the neat treasures in their store, many of which are Route 66 souvenirs you cannot find anywhere else on the road.  Yup, a few came home with me but I left plenty for y’all too.  This was originally the worlds largest rocking chair in the Guinness Book of World Records in 2008 and stands 42 feet 1 inch tall and weights 27,500 pounds.  In 2015, the town of Casey, Illinois made a rocking chair 56 feet 1 inch tall taking over the world record title and bumping the Fanning, MO chair into second.  

Fanning Outpost General Store - definitely has a little bit of everything in it!
Fanning Outpost General Store - definitely has a little bit of everything in it!
Smurf-vette with the Fanning Outpost mural
Smurf-vette with the Fanning Outpost mural
Smurf-vette spies a vintage Corvette in this mural!
Smurf-vette spies a vintage Corvette in this mural!
The worlds 2nd largest rocking chair
The worlds 2nd largest rocking chair

ROLLA, MO

The Totem Pole Trading Post dates to 1933 and they claim to be the longest-running business on Route 66 in Missouri.  It was first opened in Arlington, relocated to Rolla in the late 60’s then moved again in 77 to its current location.

Totem Pole Trading Post
Totem Pole Trading Post
Totem Pole Trading Post
Totem Pole Trading Post

DEVILS ELBOW, MO

Devil’s Elbow sits in a sharp 180 degree bend of the Big Piney River.  Just before you cross the river is the Elbow Inn Bar & BBQ Pit which looks like it could have been a fun local dive bar but is currently closed.  Just beyond the bar is the Devil’s Elbow Bridge which is a two-span truss bridge built in 1923 and still in operation today.  Its 589 feet, has a 19.4 foot deck width, and vertical clearance of 14 feet.  Once you enter town you are welcomed by an antique firetruck.

Elbow Inn Bar & BBQ Pit
Elbow Inn Bar & BBQ Pit
Devil's Elbow Bridge over the Big Piney River
Devil's Elbow Bridge over the Big Piney River
Welcome to Devil's Elbow - antique firetruck
Welcome to Devil's Elbow - antique firetruck

TO BE CONTINUED...

It seems pretty hard to follow a town named Devil’s Elbow so we are going to wrap up this post here.  Join me in the next post as we travel the second half of Missouri and see more great sights along the way, starting with Uranus!  That’s right…I said Uranus!!